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Old 11-26-2012, 09:26 AM   #2
Devs93
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Step 7:
Remove the power steering pump so you can get to the back to where the hose attaches and attach the hose that goes to the booster.
-Supposedly you might be able to get to this from the bottom without removing it, but I have a belly pan from my lift kit so I cant access the bottom. Either way, I think just removing it is easiest.
-I am going to assume you are doing this swap and have made it this far you know how to remove the serp belt and use the puller on the pulley to get it off, so I wont go into detail on that. I will add that I had to hold the pulley with my hand so it wouldnt rotate while I was pulling it. Depending on what type of puller you get, you may be able to use a creasent wrench (or bigass wrench if you have one) on the puller to hold it still. Same with the tool to push it back on, which with that one take care to make sure you have plenty of it threaded into the pump before cranking down, otherwise you will destroy the outer threads which means new waterpump.
- Once you get the pulley off, its 4 15mm bolts, 3 on the front, and 1 on the side, to get the pulley off. One of the bolts is to a bracket that holds some electrical lines out of the way, it is easiest to remove this and make removing the pump easier.
- Now the pump shouldnt be attached by anything but the lines. You now need to turn it over to get to the back since thats where the hose attaches. I found the easiest way to do this was finagle it upwards so its near the alternator. You will have to maneuver around electrical wires and hoses, but it is doable once you get that angle you need.
- Once you get it up, you will be looking at this:

You will need to remove the hose that comes out of the back and goes to the gear box.
- When that hose is removed, install hose number 6 from the parts picture at the top. The end with alot of bends goes to the pump. It will be obvious since these bends allow the hose to be routed safely around everything.
- Reinstall the pump the same way you took it off. Dont forget that ground wire on the side bolt or the bracket on the front. Press the pulley back on and reinstall the serp belt.


Step 8:
Attach the hose that goes from the gearbox to the booster.
- This is hose number 7 in the parts picture, and the end with the 7 on it goes to the gear box.
- There will probably be a little bit of fluid leaking out from the top of the gear box but that is why you bought you more fluid and it will stop as soon as you connect the hose. The hose has different size fittings on each end, so you cant install it backwards.
- Once it is connected to the gearbox, you can attach it to the driver side of the booster.
- Attach the hose from the power steering pump to the passenger side of the booster at this time as well.


Step 9:
T low pressure return from booster into low pressure return to pump.

- This line is very low pressure, as in a few tablespoons when you let off the brakes and a slight drip whenever else, so this is why you can T this without a problem.
- You can either attach it right before the pump after the cooler, or right after the gear box before the cooler. I chose to do the later.
- I used a razor blade to cut the line (make sure you cut it straight!) about 6" from the gear box to give the fitting enough room, and attached my 3/8" T fitting in between the two halves I just made and secured it with clamps, making sure the perpendicular side of the T was facing the booster. The flow from the gear box to the cooler should be a straight line - use the offset prong for the booster return.

- I ran my low pressure return line to the open prong and secured it with a clamp.

At this point all lines should be connected and all bolts tightened, so it looks something like this:


Here is a gm diagram I found useful:



Step 10:
Bleed the power steering. Do not start the engine yet.
- The easiest way I've found to do this is jack up the front of the truck so the tires are off the ground and turn the steering wheel full left to full right about 20 times, checking every few times on the fluid level. Also pump the brakes a few times as well. The fluid should be around "full cold", if not, add more.
- Having too much fluid is just as bad as not enough, so DO NOT exceed the "full hot" mark and make sure there is more than the "add" mark. Somwhere in the middle is where you want, close to the "full cold".
- Once you have cycled the steering back and forth and you are no longer getting bubbles in the resovoir, you are ready to start the engine.

Step 11:
Double check all fittings and connections, say a quick prayer, and start the engine.
- The system should be pretty well bled, but its never a bad idea to cycle the steering wheel some more just in case.
- Press the pedal a few times to make sure your brakes actually work (you can hear the engine studder slightly due to the increased load on the pump).
- Test drive...slowly...



That is all there is! Typical install time will be 3-6 hours depending on how fast you work. It took my 3 days because my hydrobooster was retarded and had to be wacked with a hammer before it worked properly (seriously), but if it wasnt for that I would have been done in 4 hours.

I take no responsibility if you screw anything up and/or die in the process. (<- disclaimer)

I made this borrowing somewhat from the one on pttrucks.net (mainly just the part numbers in the beginning), but mine is much more in depth and hopefully much more helpful since my pictures actually work
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