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Old 10-12-2012, 09:38 AM   #2
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 780

If you do remove the distributor for whatever reason, please read this about how to correctly re-stab it on page 2 here:
Now you want to figure out how to mount the coils. I used a few different methods, due to my setup, I have a large side mounted whipple which covers a portion of the driver side valve cover and eliminates the ability to use the top of that valve cover for mounting, I ended up fabricating some little coil mounts ‘boats’ here:

And mounting them off some angle aluminum welded to the side of some aluminum valve covers:

This worked great for the driver’s side, kept the coils back far enough to clear potential problems with the whipple, etc, however the passenger side was problematic, I had issues with the oil dipstick tube clearance, and the ECT sensor wiring which I have in my passenger side head, as well as just making things more crowded over there when it didn’t need to be. After running it with that for a while, I ended up switching the passenger side over to the coil bracket that eficonnection makes :

It has worked great, if you don’t have portions of the valve covers inaccessible like I did, and you’re using the LS2 coils, I’d recommend just using EFIconnection’s brackets. But there are many other ways you can mount them. Here are some mounting ideas from their other customers:
These coils are wired for a ground, so unlike the L31 coil, you don’t need to have the coil body grounded to the block or anything like that, so that opens up a lot of mounting options. Hell, if you wanted to (I don’t know why you would) you could probably mount them in the cab.

So now that you have the 24x reluctor/sensor/wiring, in, and coils on and mounted, now there is the wiring for the coils/PCM. Each coil has a 4 wire connector on it, this supplies a 12v power source, a ground, a reference, and a command signal wire. Each bank is wired back to a single 7 wire male/female connector. Each coil on a specific bank shares the power, ground, and reference wire, so they’re all spliced together stemming from the 7 wire connector, and each has its own command signal wire (4 signal wires +1 12v, +1 ground +1 reference = 7wires).

Each signal wire and the 2 reference wires (one for each bank) runs directly back to the PCM, and we’ll talk about wiring those in a minute, first let’s discuss where to get the power/ground signals. Remember when you removed the original coil and ignition module? That left the 2 connectors from the harness unused. What I did, was to lop off the connectors for both the original coil and ignition module. The pink wires are both 12v sources from fuse ECM1 at the fuse box, they are on the same circuit and used to power the original coil, I used both the pink wires as the 12v source (1 wire per bank) to power the new coils, then there is a black/white wire from the ignition module connector, this is a direct ground, I spliced that wire into 2 and ran one to each 7 wire connector to supply the ground. This provides both the ground and 12v source for each bank of new coils.
After removing the old coil/module connectors and using the power and ground, you are left with some extra wires, there are 2 white wires, and what looks like 2 white/black wires. The white black wires are actually each end of the same wire, if you unravel the harness back a little bit, you can just remove that wire completely. Then there are the 2 white wires. These are actually both for the same thing, they control the Tach output to the instrument cluster from the PCM. All you need to do is splice these wires together, one side goes to the instrument cluster, the other to the PCM. The side on the PCM needs to go to pin C2-10 on the 411 PCM which provides a engine speed signal (if you’ve done the 411 swap before starting this project you’ll move pin C2-26 to c2-10 for the tach signal, if you haven’t done the 411 swap, then you’ll need to look up your year schematics to find where this is coming from), this also needs some adjustment in the tune to read correctly on the cluster. We’ll discuss tuning in a little bit.

Now the coil wiring is pretty simple and complex at the same time, first off the simple, each coil has a wire running to it directly from the PCM, second, the low reference for each bank runs directly from the PCM. Pretty simple. Here are the schematics for a ’01 LS1 which is how you want everything wired:

Pretty easy. Now for the complex part. The Gen III motors have a different firing order than the gen I’s. this CANNOT be changed in the tune, it needs to be hardwired for both the injectors and coils. Basically you need to swap the wiring for cylinders 2 & 3, and 4 & 7. The coil wiring is easy enough. Just make sure that you swap the wiring for those cylinders in comparison with those schematics above. Basically for the coil wiring you want to do this:
A Purple wire to------C2-26 for Coil #1 Control
a Red wire to---------C2-27 for coil #7 Control
a Lt.Blu/Wht wire to--C2-28 for coil #6 Control
a Dk.Grn/Wht wire to--C2-29 for coil #4 Control
a Purple/Wht wire to--C2-66 for coil #8 control
a Red/Wht wire to-----C2-67 for coil #2 control
a Dk.Grn wire to------C2-68 for coil #5 control
a Lt.Blu wire to------C2-69 for coil #3 control
a Brown wire to C2-60 for Bank #1 Coils-Low Reference
a Brn/Wht wire to C2-61 for Bank #2 Coils-Low Reference
the injectors for me were easy, I already have a true MPFI setup with external injectors, so I just swapped the connector on them. However if you have an L31, you’ll just need to swap the pins for the injector controls at the PCM, if you have a 411 already installed, you need to Switch the wires of (C1-3 and C1-4) and (C1-43 and C1-44), if you don’t have the 411 installed, shame on you, and you’ll need to find your specific schematics for the proper pinouts.

Alright, the install is pretty much finished at this point, you’ll need to put on some new plug wires, you have some options here, you can go with LS1 plug wires, which are ~8” long and I found them to be too short for my application, you can also use the gen III truck wires (i.e. LQ4/LQ9 wires) which are the same as the LS1’s but they’re about 12” long. But you’ll have difficulty finding these wires with actual 90* boots on the plug end. I ended up using a plug wire kit and making my own leads. You’ll need MSD PN 3304 for the coil end of the wire, and any universal make your own plug wire set with the plug boot of your choice on the other end.

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