Indiana Truck Scene Forum - The EDC Thread

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- Bags to Body Drops (http://www.indianatruckscene.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=10)

- - The EDC Thread (http://www.indianatruckscene.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41)

Where Can I Find a York Compressor?

Here is a list of Cars:

Quite a bit of Pre 1984 Volvo's had a York 210. This is your best bet.
List of Volvo's with Yorks can be found here.

Other Cars include (stole this list from my roommate who posted it on SSM):

1963-1968 AMERICAN MOTORS AMBASSADOR
1964-1968 AMERICAN MOTORS AMERICAN
1963-1966 AMERICAN MOTORS CLASSIC
1965-1967 AMERICAN MOTORS MARLIN
1967-1968 AMERICAN MOTORS REBEL
1980-1984 AUDI 4000 5 Cylinder 2.2
1984 AUDI 4000S QUATTRO 5 Cylinder 2.2
1987 AUDI COUPE 5 Cylinder 2.3
1981-1987 AUDI COUPE 5 Cylinder 2.2
1964 FORD CUSTOM
1967 FORD CUSTOM 8 Cylinder
1968 FORD CUSTOM 8 Cylinder 6.4
1968-1969 FORD CUSTOM 8 Cylinder 5.0
1968-1969 FORD CUSTOM 8 Cylinder 7.0
1968 FORD CUSTOM 500 8 Cylinder 4.7
1968 FORD CUSTOM 500 8 Cylinder 6.4
1968-1969 FORD CUSTOM 500 8 Cylinder 5.0
1968-1969 FORD CUSTOM 500 8 Cylinder 7.0
1969 FORD FAIRLANE 8 Cylinder 5.8
1958-1970 FORD FAIRLANE
1965-1967 FORD FAIRLANE 8 Cylinder 4.7
1966-1969 FORD FAIRLANE 8 Cylinder 6.4
1968-1969 FORD FAIRLANE 8 Cylinder 5.0
1968-1969 FORD FAIRLANE 8 Cylinder 7.0
1967 FORD FALCON 6 Cylinder 2.8
1967 FORD FALCON 6 Cylinder 3.3
1963-1970 FORD FALCON
1965-1968 FORD FALCON 8 Cylinder 4.7
1968-1970 FORD FALCON 8 Cylinder 5.0
1967 FORD GALAXIE 8 Cylinder
1963-1964 FORD GALAXIE 8 Cylinder
1968 FORD GALAXIE 500 8 Cylinder 6.4
1968-1969 FORD GALAXIE 500 8 Cylinder 5.0
1968-1969 FORD GALAXIE 500 8 Cylinder 7.0
1967 FORD LTD 8 Cylinder
1968 FORD LTD 8 Cylinder 4.7
1968 FORD LTD 8 Cylinder 6.4
1968-1969 FORD LTD 8 Cylinder 5.0
1968-1969 FORD LTD 8 Cylinder 7.0
1970 FORD MAVERICK
1967-1970 FORD MUSTANG
1963 FORD THUNDERBIRD 8 Cylinder 6.7
1963-1968 FORD THUNDERBIRD 8 Cylinder 6.4
1963-1968 FORD THUNDERBIRD 8 Cylinder 7.0
1965-1968 FORD LIGHT TRUCK E SERIES
1963-1969 FORD LIGHT TRUCK F SERIES
1973-1978 INTERNATIONAL SCOUT II 4 Cylinder 3.2
1973-1978 INTERNATIONAL SCOUT II 8 Cylinder 5.0
1975-1978 INTERNATIONAL SCOUT II 8 Cylinder 5.6
1976-1978 INTERNATIONAL SCOUT II 8 Cylinder 5.7
1968 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL 8 Cylinder 7.5
1963-1965 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL 8 Cylinder 7.0
1966-1968 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL 8 Cylinder 7.6
1960-1965 MERCEDES-BENZ 220 6 Cylinder 2.2
1969 MERCEDES-BENZ 230 6 Cylinder 2.3
1969-1970 MERCEDES-BENZ 250 6 Cylinder 2.5
1973-1976 MERCEDES-BENZ 280 6 Cylinder 2.7
1969-1973 MERCEDES-BENZ 220D 4 Cylinder 2.2
1960-1965 MERCEDES-BENZ 220S 6 Cylinder 2.2
1960-1965 MERCEDES-BENZ 220SE 6 Cylinder 2.2
1969 MERCEDES-BENZ 230S 6 Cylinder 2.3
1969 MERCEDES-BENZ 230SL 6 Cylinder 2.3
1970-1972 MERCEDES-BENZ 250C 6 Cylinder 2.8
1966-1967 MERCEDES-BENZ 250S 6 Cylinder 2.5
1966-1967 MERCEDES-BENZ 250SE 6 Cylinder 2.5
1967 MERCEDES-BENZ 250SL 6 Cylinder 2.5
1973-1976 MERCEDES-BENZ 280C 6 Cylinder 2.7
1978-1979 MERCEDES-BENZ 280CE 6 Cylinder 2.7
1969-1971 MERCEDES-BENZ 280S 6 Cylinder 2.8
1975-1976 MERCEDES-BENZ 280S 6 Cylinder 2.7
1977 MERCEDES-BENZ 280SE 6 Cylinder 2.7
1969-1972 MERCEDES-BENZ 280SE 6 Cylinder 2.8
1969-1971 MERCEDES-BENZ 280SEL 6 Cylinder 2.8
1969-1971 MERCEDES-BENZ 280SL 6 Cylinder 2.8
1961-1966 MERCEDES-BENZ 300SE 6 Cylinder 3.0
1963-1965 MERCEDES-BENZ 300SEL 6 Cylinder 3.0
1967 MERCURY COMET 8 Cylinder 6.4
1975 MERCURY COMET 8 Cylinder
1963-1969 MERCURY COMET 6 Cylinder
1964-1967 MERCURY COMET 8 Cylinder 4.7
1968-1969 MERCURY COMET 8 Cylinder
1968 MERCURY COUGAR 6 Cylinder
1967-1969 MERCURY COUGAR 8 Cylinder
1968 MERCURY MONTEGO
1969 MERCURY MONTEGO 6 Cylinder 4.1
1969 MERCURY MONTEGO 8 Cylinder 5.0
1969 MERCURY MONTEGO 8 Cylinder 5.8
1986-1988 VOLKSWAGEN QUANTUM 5 Cylinder 2.2

Where else can I get a york compressor?
You can get a new or remanufactured compressor from Autozone (tell the clerk you need an AC compressor for one of the above applications)
You can also get one from Kilby Enterprises at www.onboardair.com. Expect to pay $100 without clutches for a york new/remanufactured, and do not pay over 50-60 with clutches from a boneyard. My friend got mine for $23 from a junkyard in daytona beach, and shipped it to me for $10. Total investment = $33

I have my compressor, now what do I need to get it mounted and in place?

Brackets:

You need to mount this thing somehow. Decide weather you want to run it off your alternator, in your serpentine belt rotation, or anywhere else (i have seen driveshaft, but not the best idea, lol).
Depeding on what you drive, you may or may not be in luck. Onboard Air and Air Ride Technologies sell brackets for popular applications. Mine was a 1988 4.3L OBS with a 4 groove serpentine setup. There were no
premanufactured brackets for my application, so i was forced to make my own. Remember when making your own brackets, that this thing needs to be solid! I cannot emphisize that enough. When this thing is pumping, there is some serious vibration.

Clutches:

You need to get the proper clutch set for your compressor. You need to decide how you will mount it, and that determines what clutches you will need.
If you want to run your york in your serpentine belt rotation, you will need a serpentine clutch . I have a V-belt clutch on my york, because i run
a Kilby Combo Pully

I have my york mounted, how do i plumb it?

You need to get some way of converting the rotolock thread flanges to NPT so you can run standard fittings off of it. The easiest way to do this is to order these flanges from onboardair. There are also flanges that screw over the exsisting rotolock thread.

Stainless Braided Line:
You NEED ATLEAST 3ft of stainless braided line coming off of the flanges. The air coming out of a york is very hot, and the stainless line helps dissapate the heat. I got 3 ft of stainless line from www.mcmaster.com. Cost = $36.
You can get the stainless line from ART, but i do not know the link.

Check Valve
The air coming out of a york is pressurized... duh. To prevent that pressure from coming back and blowing your york up, you need a check valve. You can get check valves just about anywhere. Try larry @ innovative or jason @ suicidedoors.

Fittings and other crap
I then run a compression fitting to run my DOT air line off of my check valve. This line then goes into a water trap, which goes into your air tank.
You also need an intake filter, because like anything else with a machined surface inside, you need to filter the air before it gets in.

Misc Crap to know about yorks

They spew alot of oil.
Because you are converting what once was a closed system into a open system, oil needs to escape somewhere. There are a few options, you can do the Oil Mod, or you can get an oil seperating unit from onboardair.com.
Read that Oil Mod link, as it is very informative.

Oil and maintence
Because of the oil escaping, you need the oil your compressor. I use 30W non-detergent oil, and a kilby dipstick to check to make sure it is full. A full compressor takes around 14 ounces of oil, and the kilby dipstick has a mark in it for every ounce of oil in the compressor.

Wiring
You wire your compressor is easy. With anything electrical, there are a few ways of doing it. I prefer mine to be manual, so i can control what RPM's my compressor comes on at, so i just wired a fuse inbetween the clutch wire and a switch that I use to turn the compressor on and off.
You can also use a pressure switch if you prefer, but make sure you use a relay. Do not hack wiring.

Here are some of the links that i used to help me with my setup:

http://www.geocities.com/spencerhut/truck/air.htm
http://www.universityofjeep.ca/oba_install_paul.html
http://moose.ca/~slowzuki/slowzuki/t...omp/OilFix.htm
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/york_lube.html
http://www.ccicompressor.com/SrvcManl.htm
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/body/york/
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techrepor...art1/york2.htm

Hope this thread helps... Add anything you feel necessary

Here is from another site
I think we need to start a sticky. On york EDC setups. Pics of them install pics. Plumbing diagrams. Were to get the compressor. What are some part numbers for parts ( pressure switch, head adaptors, etc...)
Heres a cut away which shows why these suckers are such a good choice. They have there own crank for oil supply. They do consume oil but not to bad after they have been broken in (if new) If you get a junkyard special then no worries. But on mine as long as you keep it oiled it runs smooth. I have seen were there has been little or no maintenance. The compressor will seize up. Because of the oil that is left is getting burnt causing abnormal wear.

Service manual, very nice! Has all the demissions how much oil they take. Bolt hole locations an measurements.
http://www.ccicompressor.com/docs/tccisrvice.pdf

PARTS!!!
http://www.nextag.com/amazon_it--270...D365C6EF07E9D1
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2DC09
http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/compressors.htm
http://kilbyenterprises.com/pulleys.htm
http://www.gravity-werx.com/index.as...TS&Category=98
http://store.gaugemagazine.com/index...OD&ProdID=2054
http://www.waylayedinc.com/
http://www.triadtechnologies.com/sitemap/parkerlink.asp
Oil mod - waste of time! Doesnt let the head get any oil.

Crank case vent- On the compressor, you take out one of the plugs and put a filter on it. It also doubles as a oil fill too. (post picture when I get to it)
I don't have picture of mine. But guy on FSC (KruzenLow) I thinks thats his username, has a really nice bracket and setup.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...65/compres.jpg

I will post more stuff an edit more of this as I can get time. But feel free to add to it. But heres what the guts look like.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2.../CCIsrvice.png
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...ecs206-209.png

Heres a crude diagram of the plumbing an electrical, the black Dots are connections or Tee's You can put the pressure switch were ever, but I would say after the water trap. I forgot about doin that when I drew it.
Diagram courtesy of KreepyOne
http://i38.tinypic.com/2m3fsj8.jpg

heres a list of vechiles
(sorry) couldn't get the HTML coding to work right, so just made them .png :think:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...ist_Page_2.png
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...ist_Page_1.png
update!!!

That a lot of info buddy thank you

Quote:

Originally Posted by Devs93 (Post 158)

Stainless Braided Line:
You NEED ATLEAST 3ft of stainless braided line coming off of the flanges. The air coming out of a york is very hot, and the stainless line helps dissapate the heat. I got 3 ft of stainless line from www.mcmaster.com. Cost = $36.
You can get the stainless line from ART, but i do not know the link.

They spew alot of oil.
Because you are converting what once was a closed system into a open system, oil needs to escape somewhere. There are a few options, you can do the Oil Mod, or you can get an oil seperating unit from onboardair.com.
Read that Oil Mod link, as it is very informative.

let me ad, you do not have to run stainless braided line. standard hydraulic line will also work.

also, the oil mod on yorks is not worth the time or effort

you can also use a standard pressure switch. no need for a unloader line as shown in the diagram

Good accurate info here. I have run Yorks since 2007. Love them. My '92 "Denali Truck" was my first. It's great how it builds faster than my air horns; which use 5/16" line.

I need to make one for my s-10

i have the drawings and dimensions for 96+ Vortecs, if you want i'll scan em. it'll at least get you started

off topic..When did you put that manifold and valve covers on they look good!